I cut my visit short to the Karen village for the so-called Countdown party due to an irritating ear infect. Anyway - yes, it was great, a great experience and a hundred photos to remind me of the trip.

However - I was assured that there would be a big Countdown party and I was looking forward to that - even pacing myself with the drink. I heard the party fire up across the road and thought we would be going over about 10.00 p.m.

By 8.30 the party was over - it was for the kids. Shocked at this development and by the news the village was going to bed - I sped to the next village to be told the same thing. I was then told about some other party twenty clicks away on a freezing mountain night, and decided to surrender to the inevitable - and went to bed. Bed being a mat and a blanket below a mosquito net.

On the bright side - the whisky started flowing the next day at 9.00 a.m. and kept going all day. Next year, Countdown Party in CM for me - then a rapid trip to the mountain to join their festivities. I'm glad I went - I don't think I'd do Countdown there ever again - but it does fit into the box marked "unique Thai experience," for me.

And that will do just fine.